Pool/Fence Build Thread

URGatorBait

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I have one 160ft section of fence I had installed over 7 years ago. The new fence leads right into this fence. I was planning on replacing a few of the boards, but looking at it more closely I can rip apart every board with my bare hands.... so I have decided to replace the whole damn thing. At least all the posts are 100% fine. AND, I can now install the wire fence on it correctly instead of some ghetto job I was going to have to rig up. Double AND.... I will have a big bonfire!

(I think that fence guy screwed me and didnt use pressure treated wood)

IMG_1840.jpg
It's possible that pressure treated wood was used.y dad and I built our privacy fence over a decade ago, and it had some issues like that, around the same period of time, though not every single piece lol.

It could have just been really cheap **** or poorly treated wood as well.
 

itsgr82bag8r

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I used screws instead of nails. Keeps them from working themselves out over the years.
 

MidwestChomp

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Trump's wall may be tax payer paid. I think we should contract Brad. We'd be supporting a fellow Gator.
 

bradgator2

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The wire mesh I bought come in 100ft rolls. I am ready to install the 195ft backline, which is obviously 2 rolls. I cut the ends off and braided them together (which really really sucked btw). I literally have no idea if it will work, but I cant imagine why it would fail when I pull it tight. Maybe I will temporarily put on some dlinks in case it blows apart.
IMG_1852.jpg
 

itsgr82bag8r

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The wire mesh I bought come in 100ft rolls. I am ready to install the 195ft backline, which is obviously 2 rolls. I cut the ends off and braided them together (which really really sucked btw). I literally have no idea if it will work, but I cant imagine why it would fail when I pull it tight. Maybe I will temporarily put on some dlinks in case it blows apart.
IMG_1852.jpg

Easy & cheap fix to a potential frustrating problem.......
 

bradgator2

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I used screws instead of nails. Keeps them from working themselves out over the years.

I use screws when I am working alone because they are easier to manage. I have used the grey coated deck screws here many, many times. They have a listed 10 year life on the box, but they are essentially dust after 7 (and impossible to tighten or remove after about 3 years). They say they are safe for treated lumber, so it must be the climate here. I have recently switched to stainless steel hex screws for any outdoor applications, and they have a listed lifetime life on the box. But I seriously doubt it. Damn are they expensive. The nails I bought for the framing nail gun are hot dipped galvanized, so they *should* do well. But I really need another person helping to use it safely.
 

itsgr82bag8r

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I use screws when I am working alone because they are easier to manage. I have used the grey coated deck screws here many, many times. They have a listed 10 year life on the box, but they are essentially dust after 7 (and impossible to tighten or remove after about 3 years). They say they are safe for treated lumber, so it must be the climate here. I have recently switched to stainless steel hex screws for any outdoor applications, and they have a listed lifetime life on the box. But I seriously doubt it. Damn are they expensive. The nails I bought for the framing nail gun are hot dipped galvanized, so they *should* do well. But I really need another person helping to use it safely.
I've seen the SS hex screws used on a dock last for going on 8 years now. They will bleed a little but so far no failure. You're correct, they're expensive!
 

bradgator2

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Forgot to mention, I bought some incredible work gloves for this project. These things are amazing. They are $13 and every man on this forum needs to buy a pair.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...F8&qid=1485051755&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

Anyway, I was installing permanent diagonal backstays and I bought 4 inch lag bolt screws to install them. They came in one of those classic plastic boxs that are essentially impossible to open cleanly. It was seriously kicking my ass. I used the wire cutters to hack it but I still couldn't get into the dam thing. Getting pissed and frustrated, I take off the gloves to get a better grip on an open corner, yank.... and a sharp edge of the plastic slices my finger like a razor blade. All I could do was laugh. I wanted to kick myself in the ass because I have special scissors made to open these damn plastic boxes.
 

bradgator2

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So I officially have a pool leak. Water level is dropping about 2 inches a week, where it should only be about half an inch due to evaporation. By my estimates, that equates to 120 gallons a day. Y'all want me to provide updates on the process and repair? Should be a doozy to watch... but thank God I dont have drop a single red cent on it.
 

NVGator

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So I officially have a pool leak. Water level is dropping about 2 inches a week, where it should only be about half an inch due to evaporation. By my estimates, that equates to 120 gallons a day. Y'all want me to provide updates on the process and repair? Should be a doozy to watch... but thank God I dont have drop a single red cent on it.
:suicide:
 

bradgator2

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Apparently, there are companies who specialize in locating leaks such as this.

First step: They are coming out and pressurizing the entire plumbing system. If it's in the plumbing, then they start pressuring individual lines. There are 7 lines. 3 inlets (main drain, skimmer basket, vacuum) and 4 outlets (standard wall return, deck spitters, and 2 sundeck spitters).

I dont see how the concrete can be leaking. What's left? Can it leak where the lights are? What about around the outside of a pipe where it enters through the concrete? And I guess how the whole skimmer basket is installed. Besides that... there are no other possible holes.
 

oxrageous

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I had a pool leak but it was near the surface through cracked grout around the tiles. Easy fix, fortunately.
 

bradgator2

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I had a pool leak but it was near the surface through cracked grout around the tiles. Easy fix, fortunately.

Yeah, I have looked the best I can for anything obvious like that. All along the tile, around every penetration, around the skimmer. The builder is betting in the plumbing. He described some of the tests the leak finders will use. Some pretty cool dyes, ultrasonic listeners, putting the plumbing under air pressure. It will interesting to watch them do their magic. The good thing is that this is 100% stress free for me.
 

crosscreekcooter

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Leaks can occur at any penetration in the pool shell. Most I've seen are in or around the plumbing. Because the shell concrete is so dense and well consolidated and also gets a plaster coat of finish, leaks through the shell are rare. Do you recall the pressure gauge reading for the inspection?
 

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