Rhino Shield, anyone?

Concrete Helmet

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So it's about time to paint our downtown office building again. Today was the day I was going to start calling for estimates to prep and paint the building but on my way to the office I heard an advertisement for a product called Rhino Shield. It's a ceramic covering that is applied like paint but has a 25 year warranty. Our building is a 2 story Historic home that has been converted and currently has cedar siding on the exterior walls.

Does anyone here have any experience with this product or possibly know of anyone who has? Thanks.
 

bradgator2

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I'd love to know what you find out. I wanted to research them whenever my house needs a new paint job.
 

Concrete Helmet

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I'd love to know what you find out. I wanted to research them whenever my house needs a new paint job.
I'm gonna do some research and hopefully someone here, Cooter perhaps, has heard someone talk about them. Most reviews seem positive but it's hard to base anything on that. I'll probably call them for a quote to get an idea on pricing.
 

crosscreekcooter

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I'm gonna do some research and hopefully someone here, Cooter perhaps, has heard someone talk about them. Most reviews seem positive but it's hard to base anything on that. I'll probably call them for a quote to get an idea on pricing.

Rhino Shield is a franchised business. Never had any contact with them or their product. I'm not sure if they even manufacture their paint products. The concept behind ceramic particles seems plausible since the heat shields for the space shuttles were ceramic tiles. Their ad claiming to block 90% of the suns rays seems to be quite a stretch, but if true you wouldn't need air conditioning. This is speculation on my part but I'm quite sure when someone buys a RS franchise, they interview painting contractors, train them in their approach to application and the work is then subcontracted. Nothing lost in getting an estimate but your time. If you do, send me a copy of their proposal if they will allow you to keep it overnight to allow you to think about it. I understand it's quite expensive. If it's just the coating material you are interested in, contact Nationwide Protective Coatings in Sarasota. They manufacture a ceramic coating. I don't know anything about them either except what I read. Check their Super-Ceramic One Kote Low Lustre One Coat Acrylic Paint #2925-5 (5 gal ) for pricing and specs. Their website claims a 15 year warranty with a coverage rate of 200-300 sf/gal. Keep in mind this coverage would be under ideal surface characteristics, condition, and millage of product applied. My experience is mechanically applying coatings usually requires fogging 2 coats to achieve proper coverage to prevent holidays and paint runs assuming your cedar siding is rough sawn. Cedar also has a propensity to split after drying over the years. There is also a certain amount lost to the wind, priming, and hose and equipment cleanup. They should have a list of approved painting contractors familiar with their products. I'm going to guess their product is at least 20% more expensive than a top of the line exterior acrylic latex paint.
I truthfully wouldn't throw my money away on a 25 year paint job. For exterior paint I prefer Ben Moore, Sherwin Williams, and Glidden. Properly applied you should expect 10 to 15 years out of a properly applied conventional paint job, depending on weather extremes and sun exposure.
Whatever you do, make sure their estimate includes a bleach wash, pressure wash and rinse (2 step) and have all the bad or questionable wood replaced. Make sure they remove loose or improperly applied caulk. Prime all bare wood with an oil-based exterior primer (Sherwin Williams makes an excellent one) and whatever paint you choose, make sure it's their very best and have them add a mildewcide to the paint. It's cheap. Good prep is one of the most important parts of a paint job. By the way, all paint used to last a really long time. Then they took the lead out of it.
Bah blah blah blah
 

Concrete Helmet

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Thanks for the reply. I was really interested in RS because of their supposed prep process to the building. The last time it was painted was probably 8-9 years ago and who ever did it didn't do a very thorough prep process. It supposedly goes on 8-9 times thicker than conventional exterior paint which I was hoping would also hide some of the imperfections remaining after the prep. I should be getting an estimate maybe this week. I'll let you know how much. I'm expecting somewhere between $10-$12K.....
 

crosscreekcooter

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Thanks for the reply. I was really interested in RS because of their supposed prep process to the building. The last time it was painted was probably 8-9 years ago and who ever did it didn't do a very thorough prep process. It supposedly goes on 8-9 times thicker than conventional exterior paint which I was hoping would also hide some of the imperfections remaining after the prep. I should be getting an estimate maybe this week. I'll let you know how much. I'm expecting somewhere between $10-$12K.....
How large is the buildng/do you have pics?
 

Concrete Helmet

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How large is the buildng/do you have pics?
I'll post pics on Monday. It's about 6500 sq. feet including the 2 small buildings with the main 4900 sq. feet office building. It's a 2 story Historic built in 1929 with a sh!t ton of windows...
 

Concrete Helmet

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Ok, I read some bad stuff about Rhino Shield, franchises not product, so we'll be looking into conventional exterior paint. Anyone have any opinions regarding brands, or painting contractors?
 

NVGator

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Sherwin Williams is the only way to go.
 

Concrete Helmet

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Sherwin Williams is the only way to go.
Just got the first quote today....$5200....Didn't mention what brand of paint and didn't want to address some of the prep I requested. He told me I needed to take care of a small wood rot spot below one of the windows.....next.
 

NVGator

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Just got the first quote today....$5200....Didn't mention what brand of paint and didn't want to address some of the prep I requested. He told me I needed to take care of a small wood rot spot below one of the windows.....next.

He'd use Behr
 

LagoonGator68

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Ok, I read some bad stuff about Rhino Shield, franchises not product, so we'll be looking into conventional exterior paint. Anyone have any opinions regarding brands, or painting contractors?


Sherwin Williams Superpaint.....$51/gallon in 2013.....I've had it on new Hardee board 2400 sq. ft. home since 2002 in a light yellow gloss and it looks almost new.....I chose gloss because it tones down in one year and ages slower in my opinion.....soft chlorine washed it twice with rinse, rinse, rinse.....then rinse again.

Prep and application is the key.....painters love to stretch material by diluting acrylic latex with water.....
 

crosscreekcooter

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Write your own specs and ask the contractors to quote based on your specs to include prep and paint application. Specify the paint and sealant materials as well as the application. Are the windows wood sash with muntins? Do the sashes need to be reglazed? Make sure all edges of the sashes receive treatment. Also address sticking windows after completion.
Your specs could become part of the scope of work inside your contract (or at least attached to the bidders agreement).
 

Concrete Helmet

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Are the windows wood sash with muntins? Do the sashes need to be reglazed? Make sure all edges of the sashes receive treatment. Also address sticking windows after completion.
Ok......What are muntins, sashes and reglazing? Are the sticky windows the same as after you watch your neighbor wash her car?
 

crosscreekcooter

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You said the building was built in the 20"s. Windows of that period were typically wood double hung design. The sash is the perimeter wood frame that surrounds the glass and slides up and down in a single or double hung design or may pivot in a casement style. A window that is a true divided lite style has wood muntins that hold smaller panes of glass. Older divided lite window sashes secured the glass into the muntin using a tiny metal triangle called a "point". Then an amount of glazing putty was neatly pressed into the muntin with a....you guessed it...a putty knife. This both secured the glass lite and waterproofed it. The putty was then painted. Later more modern true divided lite window sashes secured the lite with a thin piece of wood trim called a "glazing or parting bead". Painters invariably paint the crack between the sash and the window stop thereby painting the window shot. All wood windows should be operated upon paint completion to make sure they travel freely. I try to get the sticky ON the neighbor.
IMG_9844.jpg
Sash with glass lites and points set in muntins

IMG_9850.jpg
here the person is glazing the sash with glazing putty
 

NVGator

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You said the building was built in the 20"s. Windows of that period were typically wood double hung design. The sash is the perimeter wood frame that surrounds the glass and slides up and down in a single or double hung design or may pivot in a casement style. A window that is a true divided lite style has wood muntins that hold smaller panes of glass. Older divided lite window sashes secured the glass into the muntin using a tiny metal triangle called a "point". Then an amount of glazing putty was neatly pressed into the muntin with a....you guessed it...a putty knife. This both secured the glass lite and waterproofed it. The putty was then painted. Later more modern true divided lite window sashes secured the lite with a thin piece of wood trim called a "glazing or parting bead". Painters invariably paint the crack between the sash and the window stop thereby painting the window shot. All wood windows should be operated upon paint completion to make sure they travel freely. I try to get the sticky ON the neighbor.
IMG_9844.jpg
Sash with glass lites and points set in muntins

IMG_9850.jpg
here the person is glazing the sash with glazing putty
Wouldn't those sashes have counter weights in the as well? For sliding the window up and down?
 

Durty South Swamp

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I painted my home exterior with elostomeric (sp?). Stuff is great.
 

Concrete Helmet

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Oh well now she's decided she wants to put new siding on the building again....:suicide:
 

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