Slab Leak

gator1946

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It all depends grengady. In my case I re-piped, managed most of the dry wall cuts in closets and had just one or two short runs of crown, The problem with the drywall is paint matching. If you're picky you may have to do the entire room or at least a wall.Even with the paint matching gadgets they've got now they are never right on. Every layout is different.

And thank you for maintaining my like count. :)
 

GatorBart

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I felt your pain almost 20 years ago. Lived in Hamilton Hghts off Newberry Road. Houses all built on clay. That sh#t dries out and and shrinks gets wet and expands...............Our slab was cracked like many in the neighborhood. Walls got cracks. It was a clstrfck and OF COURSE insurance would not help. I hired a company out of Ocala to place jacks all around the front of the house buried way down on pilings. They put the jacks on top of the pilings and tried to jack it into level. 10K for it. Now my ex has the house................I guess it helped. If you drove down 91st st off Newberry south you could feel the roller coaster affect from that gdm clay.............
Hawthorne Clay.
I have a good friend who lives on the north side of Newberry road on 94th, close to where you used to live I presume.
 

crosscreekcooter

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A builder can have a proctor run for a couple hundred bucks. Cheap insurance.
 

crosscreekcooter

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Good suggestion but do you think a proctor test would change anybody's mind? A company would use a cost/risk analysis but a husband wife not so much. You know dream house and the perfect spot/lot.
Not so much to change anyone's mind about the perfect lot but to allow the builder to make better informed choices with regard to the foundation requirements. For instance, if peat or silt exists the builder would examine either de-mucking and providing a floating pad with fabric and stone to equalize the density, or the the possible use of pilings. Containment friction improves bearing capacity. In the case of expansive clayey soil conditions, it might call for designing a post tensioned slab. Equal settlement is key to prevent cracking.
 

NVGator

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Welp... We officially now have water coming into the house. Started today when I had the water turn on to the house for about 10 minutes so we could shower this morning. We have been turning the water off, at the gate valve outside the home, when not in use. The only time we've turned it on was to quickly shower us or our boys or do dishes. Below will be the the start of pictures for this thread, in case you want to relish in my stree and misery.
 

NVGator

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Reference to the wall and the leak source. This is the home entrance. There's a wall that has the laundry room on the back side. This is the first point of entrance for our plumbing from the hot water heater in the garage. From here, there's a loop to the kitchen sink.

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NVGator

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Now the rescue team starts the dry process. Thank God we only had water coming in for 10 minutes and were able to stop it. You will also see the plumbing coming out of the slab for those who know want to know what it looks like.

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LagoonGator68

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I guarantee that tee is leaking.....there may be others.
 

crosscreekcooter

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Before you tear up the floor or otherwise damage the house, have the repair team isolate the service line by capping the large line below the tee as well as the copper loop. Then turn the water back on and see if the leak continues. That will tell you if the leak is in the the service line or in the copper above. Keep in mind the leak could still be subterranean in the copper loop that returns into the slab.

And re-route that dryer vent.
 

NVGator

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I guarantee that tee is leaking.....there may be others.
If that tee was leaking, don't you think there'd be visible water damage, even the slightest, on the back of that drywall?
 

NVGator

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Before you tear up the floor or otherwise damage the house, have the repair team isolate the service line by capping the large line below the tee as well as the copper loop. Then turn the water back on and see if the leak continues. That will tell you if the leak is in the the service line or in the copper above. Keep in mind the leak could still be subterranean in the copper loop that returns into the slab.

And re-route that dryer vent.
That will be the next test but that service would be coming from the hot water heater, right?
 

LagoonGator68

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If that tee was leaking, don't you think there'd be visible water damage, even the slightest, on the back of that drywall?


Not necessarily as water leak starts with slow seep/drops...turn water on at meter just a tiny bit til indicator barely turns and go feel that tee for wetness.....if wet have someone gradually open it while you look....

I think the large pex below the tee is the service coming from the meter, but not certain.
 

crosscreekcooter

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Goon is correct about the service line. . The largest water pipe that you see coming out of the ground (tee is attached) is the service line. It runs from the meter and makes it's entrance where it transitions to copper. The copper then connects to the water heater with a tee. That cold water line will continue on to provide the cold water supply to the other fixtures. I still think the leak is near where the service enters, Obviously if you have to make a hole in the floor you would want to do it in the laundry side of the wall.
Is the tile still available?
 
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NVGator

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Day 1 of the work has been completed. Today was the Day of Discovery. Unfortunately, learned that every place there's water, in this home, is a poke up from the slab. In other words, there are very few places that the water carries through the walls.

Here's a picture of the back of the laundry room. This entry that water came in on the floor.

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NVGator

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As I speculated, the main comes in, from outside, right behind and under the Hot Water Heater, which is in the garage. You can see the manifolds.

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NVGator

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And here's a little bit of swiss cheese wall. This is what I can expect throughout the house.

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crosscreekcooter

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Looks like they are going the reroute routine , so it doesn't matter . :fistbump:

Thats like putting in a new engine cause you got a bad sparkplug. I suppose they determined the leak was from a reaction to minerals in the soil and would occur again in the future.
 

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