Cooter, Help! Zambo gets Betty too hot

g8r.tom

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It wasnt in the pic. Just got the coop done today with perching rods and a ramp up there. The kids are painting it basically camo. The wheels are kicking my ass, but I have plan C. They have been putting them in there during the day. I’ve been told they will eat everything.

pretty much everything, but meat is their favorite
 

crosscreekcooter

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When I was in Florida back in March, my mother had a list of to-dos for me. One of which was hanging new blinds and shades. I fu(king gate blinds/shades/drapes/rods. Anyway, long story short, she bought those exact cordless blinds from HD. It took me 4 minutes per blind to hand, and she doesn’t even have a drill. Sorry to hear they got the best of you.

It's glad to hear you're good for something. Did you shorten the length?
 

Detroitgator

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I laughed out loud and then read this to my wife. Her comment was, "Sounds like something you would do!" :lol:

On a similar note, a couple of weeks ago I was replacing some rotted, leaking hoses under the hood of my little Audi. Of course, these hoses were in an impossible location and it took forever to get my bleeding hands and busted knuckles in there to do it. When I was finally done, bruised, beaten and drenched with sweat, I was satisfied and was putting everything back together when I managed to snap another brittle part, one I knew would take at least a week to get ordering online.....and I wouldn't be able to drive the car until I got it.

Enraged, I kicked a plastic trash can nearby just as hard as it could, making it explode into shards all over the place. Still unsatisfied, I picked up the shattered remains and flung them out into the driveway.

Someone once said that the problem with inanimate objects is that there's no real way to get back at them.
This is why we introduced the "indestructible chair" to the steam roller!
 

AugustaGator

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I did’t see that in the picture. Great idea. Chickens are nice to have. The eggs are great and the flavor changes based on their diet.

Chickens love fried chicken.
Love eggs too!
 

cover2

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Soliciting a little advice for my Corona project. With a lot of time on my hands lately, I decided to refurbish the deck I built 17 years ago when we moved into our house. The underpinning is still in pretty good shape, so the bulk of the project is to replace the top, railing, and steps. 17 years ago I was 42 and could go and built the thing by myself. Today, I’d starve to death if I had to carpenter for a living. Needless to say it’s a slow go doing it by myself again (hey I’ve got friends, but evidently they’re all chicken sh it about this Corona stuff).

I’ve still got some decking to finish, but I’m thinking ahead to what kind of finish to put on it for both aesthetics and protection from the elements. The first time I just sealed it and it looked pretty good. Even re-sealed when the water stopped beading the first time. Then life kinda got in the way and now I’m replacing the gray, splitting, and twisting wood. So here’s my question: what would you use to give a little color and maximum protection? If this fix lasts as least as long as the original, I figure either my wife’s next husband will repair/rebuild or we’ll hire it out.

One other thing...I let a buddy talk me into screwing it together when I first built it and it seemed a lot easier. But it is one SOB to take apart while saving the underpinning! I’m beginning to think the Good Lord really did notice when I was daydreaming or napping those few...dozen times at church. Anyhow, it’s all nails this go around and I thank you in advance for your ideas on stains/paints, sealers, etc.
 

NVGator

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I’d recommend you ensure all your footings are on concrete pillars otherwise add flashing to your house between the deck and house siding. I’d also replace with redwood and leave it unstained. Finally, I’d use screws again, not nails.

Take pics as you go so everyone can criticize each and every decision you make.

Oh, and ignore @crosscreekcooter
 

MJMGator

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Soliciting a little advice for my Corona project. With a lot of time on my hands lately, I decided to refurbish the deck I built 17 years ago when we moved into our house. The underpinning is still in pretty good shape, so the bulk of the project is to replace the top, railing, and steps. 17 years ago I was 42 and could go and built the thing by myself. Today, I’d starve to death if I had to carpenter for a living. Needless to say it’s a slow go doing it by myself again (hey I’ve got friends, but evidently they’re all chicken sh it about this Corona stuff).

I’ve still got some decking to finish, but I’m thinking ahead to what kind of finish to put on it for both aesthetics and protection from the elements. The first time I just sealed it and it looked pretty good. Even re-sealed when the water stopped beading the first time. Then life kinda got in the way and now I’m replacing the gray, splitting, and twisting wood. So here’s my question: what would you use to give a little color and maximum protection? If this fix lasts as least as long as the original, I figure either my wife’s next husband will repair/rebuild or we’ll hire it out.

One other thing...I let a buddy talk me into screwing it together when I first built it and it seemed a lot easier. But it is one SOB to take apart while saving the underpinning! I’m beginning to think the Good Lord really did notice when I was daydreaming or napping those few...dozen times at church. Anyhow, it’s all nails this go around and I thank you in advance for your ideas on stains/paints, sealers, etc.
I’d recommend hiring Cooter. He works fairly cheap...some biscuits and cane syrup will do.
 

bradgator2

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@cover2 I’ve been using Cabot Gold. It’s a little pricey at $50 a gallon. There are several colors, but I copied the description of fireside cherry:


Cabot Gold is the ultimate finish, providing a beautiful sheen and strong protection from Mother Nature's worst: UV sun damage, extreme temperatures, rain and moisture. The first coat penetrates, the second coat adds dimension as it seals. The finish mimics the look of interior hardwood floors. Amount of sheen will vary based on number and thickness of each coat. Sheen will weather gradually over time.

  • Cabot Gold is the ultimate finish, providing the look of interior hardwood floors and strong protection from Mother Nature's worst
  • Fireside Cherry satin finish is ideal for use on exterior wood decks, siding, fences and outdoor furniture
  • Durable formula provides protection from UV sun damage, extreme temperatures, rain and moisture
  • Superior mildew blocker
  • First coat penetrates, second coat adds dimension as it seals
  • Resists cracking, peeling, scuffing and scratching
  • Wears gracefully over the years
  • Dual UV protection
  • Backed by the Cabot worry free project guarantee
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cabot-Gold...HWTFPBdA9TbtQeuYIDYaApr4EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.cabotwfpg.com/assets/media/pdf/Cabot_Checklist_Gold.pdf
 

cover2

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I’d recommend you ensure all your footings are on concrete pillars otherwise add flashing to your house between the deck and house siding. I’d also replace with redwood and leave it unstained. Finally, I’d use screws again, not nails.

Take pics as you go so everyone can criticize each and every decision you make.

Oh, and ignore @crosscreekcooter
Thanks NV. Thank goodness I had sense enough to pour concrete to set the piers on when I initially built it. Redwood never occurred to me and I’m too far in with the treated 5/4 boards at this point. Never worked with it; how does it hold up comparatively speaking?

I appreciate the input. Sounds like you’ve had a little experience with this type of project. I worked with a contractor for a few years right out of high school. Learned a lot, mostly that I didn’t want to go into the roofing business! I guess I achieved full jack leg status, but I enjoy little construction projects. Our house is almost 100 years old (it was my wife’s grandma’s house and was remodeled in the ‘80’s, so there’s some updating and repairing that needs doing.
 

cover2

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@bradgator2 the Cabot sounds like a good option and will be a part of my research for color, etc. I’ve enjoyed reading and seeing the pics from your pergola project. Looks great! It takes a craftsman for the attention to detail that is on display.

@MJMGator Id love to have @crosscreekcooter around for this rebuild, only I’m afraid I’d be a bad influence, wanting to cook, eat, and bull skate. Anyhow, he’s a pro and I’m too old (and too proud) to tote lumber, be the cut man, and run to the store for soda waters! Hell, come to think of it, I’m doing all that now.
 

crosscreekcooter

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@MJMGator and @grengadgy your checks are in the mail
@cover2

@NVGator made some good points about flashing but I'm not going to get into structural related issues, just finishing suggestions, other than possibly applying some type of sealer to the tops and sides of the joists, beams and bands while they are uncovered in the deck board replacement process. Thompsons is fine for this area as its covered.

The best UV and moisture protection for wood is a paint or solid-hide stain, however they don't stand up to foot traffic.
The Cabots Gold used by @bradgator2 on his new pergola is highly regarded in wood restoration and it's expensive as he opines. I have not used Cabots so I can't offer a personal assessment. I am assuming you are looking for a cost effective protective solution that also looks good. You want to get the most bang for your buck without having to go through the deck replacement process in a couple of years.

You have lots of options beginning with a straight sealer like Thompson's Waterseal. It works ok for maybe two years as an invisible membrane on masonry and wood. Thompson will blacken over time on wood. Applied over stains as it breaks down it causes the stain below to oxidize and discolor. Oil based shellacs, varnishes and common polyurethane yellow with exposure over time. The important thing to remember here is like most sealers offers WATER RESISTANCE not water proofing so the beading characteristics will be broken down over time by the elements. This same problem also exists with exterior wood finishes that are stain/sealer combos. I am going to assume you are looking for a penetrating stain and sealer. Once a combo finish is applied, if you choose to apply a second coat there will be no penetration but the successive coats will lay on top of the now sealed surface. It will appear deep, you can buy a 5 gallon bucket of colored deck and fence sealer for $150 at Home Depot but it is what it is. It will still look great for a couple years.

In my opinion the best option is a two step system, penetrating stain first where you can add as many coats to achieve the depth of color you are looking for and then apply either multiple coats (at least 2) of a water-based polyurethane or multiple coats of a marine spar varnish which contains UV blockers. The stain can be applied with a cheap $5 pump up garden sprayer from Walmart and go over with a brush and roller, the spar varnish has to be hand applied. I would two coat both.
This way isn't the least expensive but it will last.
What ever you do allow the pressure treated wood to dry out a little before finishing.
Two links to look at:
Difference Between Spar Varnish and Regular Varnish?
https://sealwithease.com/best-outdoor-wood-sealer/
 

cover2

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@crosscreekcooter

Man, I really appreciate your suggestions! I have seen the blackening from the Thompson’s first hand on what I am replacing. What my initial research has learned me jives with your two coat approach. I have no experience with the marine spar, but upon your suggestion will do my research. Either way, I plan to not scrimp on the stain/varnish. The old deck as mentioned is 17 years old, but lost its luster about 5 years ago. If I can meet or exceed that, I’ll be happy.

How long would you recommend letting the lumber dry? In the past, seems like I’ve given it 2-3 weeks, but as I don’t do a lot of this, I just wanted to check with someone that does.

Thanks again for the advice. If you are ever over this way, I know a good bail bondsman :). Just kidding, of course, but it’d sure be nice to sop some biscuits one day.
 

crosscreekcooter

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@cover2 PT pine is typically kiln dried after the pressure treatment and is supposed to be dried back to the 19% industry standard for #2 pine. Truthfully a week in the Flawduh sun (nailed in place) without rain is fine. Stacked lumber will hold moisture much longer. You've probably seen the ricks of lumber stacked in the yards of the sawmill with little splits of wood between it to allow it to air dry between rain events. One other thing, after time pine will move in the sun so if you're not gonna use deck screws you may want to try 12d galvanized spiral shank nails, just stay away from ring shank nails as they bend if you don't hit them squarely and you can't pull them.
Maybe one day we could go get likkered up and take it out on some old whores or whatever it is you old folks do for fun. Just don't bring no mullet roe cause I wear shorts when it's warm out.
 

Zambo

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Well the dang cornhole board is painted, just gotta put a couple coats of poly on it and it'll be ready to rock.
IMG_7218.JPG IMG_2060.JPG IMG_9729.JPG IMG_5070 2.JPG
 

URGatorBait

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Yea that's a good design.
I'd buy em :lol:
 

NVGator

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Well the dang cornhole board is painted, just gotta put a couple coats of poly on it and it'll be ready to rock.
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That “F” doesn’t look centered in your circle. Probably would have moved the whole circle up just a tish.
 

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