- Jun 11, 2014
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Has anyone ever mentioned that you continue to make the same mistakes over and over?
Cooter, Help! Zambo gets Betty too hot
- Thread starter bradgator2
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- Jun 12, 2014
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You thought you made a mistake but you were really right. I have done that as well.
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This is going into the new office but the color scheme will need to go into the hallway, new bathroom that’s not started yet and then carried into the bedroom. I’d like it to also carry downstairs when we repaint the living room. Whatever I pick, I need to like it a lot. Trying to pick 2-3 coordinating colors.
I’ll try to go lighter as you suggest and see what that does.
- Jun 11, 2014
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I'm late to this updated thread but looking at @Zambo garage update I see a lot of electrical issues in that project. Exposed wires and Romex not properly attached. Lighting cable exposed. Am I missing anything @crosscreekcooter
- Jun 12, 2014
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That schit would be called out left and right in a resale. That’s all. Especially in California.Its definitely not a place for kids.
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It was like that when I bought it. Nobody gives a schyt. Most of those white wires you see hanging down are just regular old 110v plugs that go into wall outlets, or they are the cables that came with the shop lights to connect them together.
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OK, back to the column repair on GF's house. Looking back on this it's kind of hard to believe I started the repair on the 1st column 6 months ago. but as I got into it more concealed problems were discovered. As I suspected all 4 columns were rotted at the base and while cutting out the rotted material decided to build base pedestals for the other 3 to match the first. At the second floor level, the walking surface was 5/4 x 6 screwed to 1x4 sleepers which were fastened to a plywood deck. The plywood had been waterproofed with a base sheet and hot asphalt with no flashing at that level so the membrane just directed the water to the inside of the columns. I originally had no intention of removing the decking but the 1" boards were attached with only one 1 1/4 screw and were buckling up. So I removed all of the deck boards and flashed around the columns where they penetrated the floors with aluminum and applied 2 coats of an elastomeric membrane. Since the balustrade was in the way and was loose and as shaky as @Swamp Donkey s hands on Sunday morning, I decided to replace that as well.
The width of the deck is only 5' so it leaves limited space to stack material and work so the waterproofing and deck replacement has to be done in several stages. Working by yourself on the second floor will make a Christian out of you.
The columns have been completed and I have disassembled the old balustrade discarding the center post as well as the the top and bottom rail. I decided to retain the balusters which have been sanded and refinished. I ripped new rails from pressure treated pine and now only lack 2 more sections of balustrade, all glued and screwed. Once all sections are in a cap rail will complete that work. I'm scraping, prepping, and painting the body and trim as I go.
Once the paint is complete a new front door and new lawn will be installed.
The width of the deck is only 5' so it leaves limited space to stack material and work so the waterproofing and deck replacement has to be done in several stages. Working by yourself on the second floor will make a Christian out of you.
The columns have been completed and I have disassembled the old balustrade discarding the center post as well as the the top and bottom rail. I decided to retain the balusters which have been sanded and refinished. I ripped new rails from pressure treated pine and now only lack 2 more sections of balustrade, all glued and screwed. Once all sections are in a cap rail will complete that work. I'm scraping, prepping, and painting the body and trim as I go.
Once the paint is complete a new front door and new lawn will be installed.
- Jul 24, 2020
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OK, back to the column repair on GF's house. Looking back on this it's kind of hard to believe I started the repair on the 1st column 6 months ago. but as I got into it more concealed problems were discovered. As I suspected all 4 columns were rotted at the base and while cutting out the rotted material decided to build base pedestals for the other 3 to match the first. At the second floor level, the walking surface was 5/4 x 6 screwed to 1x4 sleepers which were fastened to a plywood deck. The plywood had been waterproofed with a base sheet and hot asphalt with no flashing at that level so the membrane just directed the water to the inside of the columns. I originally had no intention of removing the decking but the 1" boards were attached with only one 1 1/4 screw and were buckling up. So I removed all of the deck boards and flashed around the columns where they penetrated the floors with aluminum and applied 2 coats of an elastomeric membrane. Since the balustrade was in the way and was loose and as shaky as @Swamp Donkey s hands on Sunday morning, I decided to replace that as well.
The width of the deck is only 5' so it leaves limited space to stack material and work so the waterproofing and deck replacement has to be done in several stages. Working by yourself on the second floor will make a Christian out of you.
The columns have been completed and I have disassembled the old balustrade discarding the center post as well as the the top and bottom rail. I decided to retain the balusters which have been sanded and refinished. I ripped new rails from pressure treated pine and now only lack 2 more sections of balustrade, all glued and screwed. Once all sections are in a cap rail will complete that work. I'm scraping, prepping, and painting the body and trim as I go.
Once the paint is complete a new front door and new lawn will be installed.
Sweet! Nice work, you’re hired. We’ve got 8 cedar solid posts in our garage drying out to replace ours on the porch. It will be sitting on concrete. Do they need some sort of water barrier or membrane at the base?
- Jun 11, 2014
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If the columns will be supporting either the roof or floor and roof above they will need to be anchored to the concrete with an expansion anchor adequate to withstand lift from high wind. Simpson makes a simple standoff post base that lifts the bottom of the member up 1" to prevent post end rot and the design provides the capability to anchor to concrete. The bottom of the column can be wrapped with some type of base trim to hide the post base.
here is an example of a 6" post base by Simpson
Simpson Strong-Tie ABA ZMAX Galvanized Adjustable Standoff Post Base for 6x6 Nominal Lumber-ABA66Z - The Home Depot
Simpson also makes zinc plated expansion anchors for this use
You should probably install these at a time when you don't anticipate a visit from the building inspector to avoid the costs associated with an engineered anchorage design as it relates to lift.
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Good information, thanks. I’ll look into that. The base will be wrapped with an 8” trim so that work.
Building inspectors popping by aren’t an issue in our area. A friend is putting in a pool and the health department had lost her septic system layout and told her she had to order a new survey. The house isn’t very old and she threatened getting a lawyer. The HD magically found the drawing a day later misfiled. She said it looked like a kindergartener scribbled it out on a piece of paper. That’s my county.
- Jun 11, 2014
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Friends don't let friends build pools.
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