Attic storage

[L-boy]

Thinking about converting some attic space into storage space. If I do it, I won't do it myself, I'll get a contractor or handyman to do it. Our house is about 20 years old, and it has an attic door and ladder inside the house.

It is just as simply as putting additional plywood up there? Are there any dos and don't? It is just for storage of junk, not to be a living space.

Also, seems like over the garage would make a good storage space? Would it be fairly easy for a contractor to put in another drop down attic door/ladder over the garage? There is a lot more potentially usable space there and no insulation..

 

[grengadgy]

What's the pitch of your roofs, do you have trusses constructed for adding living space? I assumed that you have looked using the pull down door. Can you see the space over the garage?

 

[L-boy]

What's the pitch of your roofs,

I don't know. It is relatively steep. Steep enough that you probably wouldn't want to walk on it standing straight up.

do you have trusses constructed for adding living space?

No idea. How would I know? We bought this house when it was 3 years old.

Not looking for living space, just attic storage of junk.

I assumed that you have looked using the pull down door. Can you see the space over the garage?

Interesting you asked that. Actually you can't see all or most of it. I never really paid attention, I assumed what I was looking at was above the garage, but much of the attic area above the garage is not visible so it is difficult to see what it looks like. I expect that area gets even hotter than the attic since there is no/very little ventilation of that section.

 

[GatorJ]

I just have plywood set over the trusses. And tons of stuff on the plywood.

 

[bradgator2]

I just have plywood set over the trusses. And tons of stuff on the plywood.

Me too. Trusses aren't meant for this. But some plywood, and general storage of a few hundred pounds of stuff isn't going to hurt anything.

The extreme heat will really ruin some stuff though. Unless you have a sprayed foam insulation (like me) because then all that space is climate controlled.

 

[URGatorBait]

Me too. Trusses aren't meant for this. But some plywood, and general storage of a few hundred pounds of stuff isn't going to hurt anything.

The extreme heat will really ruin some stuff though. Unless you have a sprayed foam insulation (like me) because then all that space is climate controlled.

Of course you have a spray foam insulated attic. Why wouldn't you

I bet they foam filled your concrete blocks too

 

[grengadgy]

 

[crosscreekcooter]

The ICC sets the minimum live load requirements for single family woodframe construction at 40 lbs per sq ft. for an occupied floor system.
It sets the minimum live load requirements for attic storage at 30lbs per sq ft- This is an attic space designed for storage
It sets the minimum live load requirement for attics without storage at 10 lbs per sq ft
I don't know when you were 3 years old nor what the code in your part of Texas was when it was built but I would be careful about improper loading in your attic. The place to start would be as someone else suggested and stick your head up there and look around. You need to know the depth and span of your ceiling joists and if they break on a bearing partition.
If you are simply looking for a small area for relatively light storage, a handyman could probably help you. If it's more than that. hire someone that knows the score (ie someone that has a large enough net worth in the event you need to sue them).

 

[LagoonGator68]

The ICC sets the minimum live load requirements for single family woodframe construction at 40 lbs per sq ft. for an occupied floor system.
It sets the minimum live load requirements for attic storage at 30lbs per sq ft- This is an attic space designed for storage
It sets the minimum live load requirement for attics without storage at 10 lbs per sq ft
I don't know when you were 3 years old nor what the code in your part of Texas was when it was built but I would be careful about improper loading in your attic. The place to start would be as someone else suggested and stick your head up there and look around. You need to know the depth and span of your ceiling joists and if they break on a bearing partition.
If you are simply looking for a small area for relatively light storage, a handyman could probably help you. If it's more than that. hire someone that knows the score (ie someone that has a large enough net worth in the event you need to sue them).

 

[grengadgy]

The ICC sets the minimum live load requirements for single family woodframe construction at 40 lbs per sq ft. for an occupied floor system.
It sets the minimum live load requirements for attic storage at 30lbs per sq ft- This is an attic space designed for storage
It sets the minimum live load requirement for attics without storage at 10 lbs per sq ft
I don't know when you were 3 years old nor what the code in your part of Texas was when it was built but I would be careful about improper loading in your attic. The place to start would be as someone else suggested and stick your head up there and look around. You need to know the depth and span of your ceiling joists and if they break on a bearing partition.
If you are simply looking for a small area for relatively light storage, a handyman could probably help you. If it's more than that. hire someone that knows the score (ie someone that has a large enough net worth in the event you need to sue them).

Good information

 

[L-boy]

The ICC sets the minimum live load requirements for single family woodframe construction at 40 lbs per sq ft. for an occupied floor system.
It sets the minimum live load requirements for attic storage at 30lbs per sq ft- This is an attic space designed for storage
It sets the minimum live load requirement for attics without storage at 10 lbs per sq ft
I don't know when you were 3 years old nor what the code in your part of Texas was when it was built but I would be careful about improper loading in your attic. The place to start would be as someone else suggested and stick your head up there and look around. You need to know the depth and span of your ceiling joists and if they break on a bearing partition.
If you are simply looking for a small area for relatively light storage, a handyman could probably help you. If it's more than that. hire someone that knows the score (ie someone that has a large enough net worth in the event you need to sue them).

Thanks. Good information. We bought the house in 1998, and it was built in 1995. The house was 3 years old, not me.

The question you asked is basically why I asked in the first place. I have no idea how to do what you are suggesting to check, guess I'll need to find somebody who knows what they are doing.

 

[grengadgy]

The picture that I posted was basically how I turned the space above my garage into a 14 x 20 playroom for my kids/grandkids. The kneewalls are nailed and bolted to the ceiling joist and the raffles. That gives added support to the ceiling joist from the rafters which are 10/12 pitch.
Kids have always loved playing behind the kneewalls studs which are open One side I built an elevated train track for my grandson. Like cooter says you need to get someone to evaluate your options and not just a handyman..

 

[crosscreekcooter]

I have no idea how to do what you are suggesting to check, guess I'll need to find somebody who knows what they are doing.

I went back and re-read your original question and I see that you are wanting to utilize the attic for storage only. For some reason I thought your home was almost as old as you are. I'm not sure if Texas had adopted the ICC codes for residential construction when your home was built but that probably doesn't matter. Most building codes utilized the same span charts that are inside the International Building Code. Span Tables for Joists and Rafters is a chart developed by the American Wood Council that is a rule of thumb guide for builders, component manufacturers and inspectors. The information provided in these tables allows a builder to conventionally frame a home in the conventional manner, especially as it relates to the floor, roof and ceiling assemblies typically without the need to have a licensed structural engineer stamp and seal the plans (although a lot of states are now making that a requirement).
Access to your attic-It sounds as though you only have one access point to your attic, Even so, you should be able to reach the garage attic space through the scuttle hole or pull down stairs located inside your home, although it may mean you have to walk across the ceiling joists to get there. All building codes in the last 50 years have had a requirement that would allow access to any concealed space over 14" in height.

I am going to assume your foundation is monolithic concrete slab common to Texas. If the rafters and ceiling joists are constructed with prefabricated trussed components, they are generally engineered and fabricated of #2 - 2x4 Southern Yellow Pine (SYP) with panel points engineered to withstand loading as well as uplift. These panel points are connected with galvanized steel plate connectors. Trusses are normally spaced 24" on center. ( Gren's attachment illustrates a truss)
Two considerations if this assembly is a trussed design.
1. You cannot cut any member of this assembly as it works and depends on all parts as a system as designed
2. Try not to put your storage area in a mid-span area, rather try to locate it near or over a wall below where the truss member has some additional direct bearing. The bottom chord is designed as an integral tie beam and not a floor joist.

If the roof assembly is conventionally framed (not trussed), the rafters are probably 2x6 and the ceiling joists are probably 2x8 and are spaced 16" apart. While it's not ideal to cut any of these members, this system is certainly more forgiving and could be repaired if necessary without an engineer's repair certification. If you decide to add a folding stair in this system, you could cut one joist and add a header and trimmers to accomodate a 22 1/2" wide folding stair. This system is also easier to lay flooring on for either a walkway or storage. I hope this helps.
*edit-be careful not to lay any plywood on top of any Romex wiring or condensate drains

 

[grengadgy]

Again you have an outstanding post. You are right about my picture being a truss but mine own are site built with the rafters, kneewalls and collar ties being yellow pine 2x6 and the joists are 2x8 yellow pine.
I didn't mean for L-boy to cut engineered trusses but mainly showing planned attic space. The safest storage would be around your pull-down stairs because these are usually in hallways or utility rooms, hidden areas. In these small areas there would be load bearing walls.

 

[crosscreekcooter]

Yeah that's a great truss design you used that allows excellent open space. I should have clarified my comments about the nominal materials used in truss design changes dependent on spans, loading, and design requirements.

 

[NVGator]

I put a pull down ladder attic access in our garage. Went up there and laid 5/8" OSB all over the trusses and screwed down. I have a shît ton of stuff stored up there all year. I have a section for all my camping gear, a corner for all our Christmas/Halloween decor, luggage, old clothes, kids' toys, old golf clubs, left over wood floor planks, larger tools like a table saw and tile saw.

Not that hard of a job, just a little elbow grease. Get after it.

 

[grengadgy]

things that make you go...... hmmm

 

[Durty South Swamp]

Cooter showin off

 

[L-boy]

Thanks for the great info! At this point, if I do anything, it would probably be just to put some plywood down and extend the existing storage area around the pull down stairs. It would only be for relatively light storage.