Auto repair

grengadgy

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We've had the levels checked and out back to correct.

It reads in the proper range, just doesn't blow, and only does marginally better at highway speeds.

I have a few things to check on it to make sure the air flow is getting through, but both fans operate correctly, and the compressor itself comes on and off as it should best I can tell.
Have you changed the "Cabin AC Filter" ? Behind the glovebox.

1. The filter is directly behind the glovebox
2. Empty your glovebox
3. Open it and let it rest
4. Run your fingers up each side of the glove box until the dashboard/top of glovebox stops you, at that point push in on each side – hard
5. The glove box will disengage and lower even further, allowing you to see the tray that holds the filter
6. The tray has tabs on each of its sides. You can see them and even feel them. Press in on the tabs like you did the glovebox. It will pop loose.
7. Pull the tray out and replace the filter
8. Slide the tray back in and you’ll hear it click in place.
9. Close the glovebox and you’re done.

 

URGatorBait

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Have you changed the "Cabin AC Filter" ? Behind the glovebox.
Yes in fact we have a K&N filter for the cabin air filter that we clean periodically. Not to be confused with the other K&N filter we have on the air intake under the hood.

I have also replaced the blower motor/fan a couple of years ago that is also behind the glove box
 

grengadgy

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Okay does it blow better or cool better on the highway? A tripped hps or lps affects the operation of the compressor
 
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jeeping8r

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As one who has done this crap professionally since 82 I have some advise....

- If you put stop leak in your AC then take it to a garage please inform them of such as the crud in there can find its way into my $4500 AC machine, The new 1234yf machines are 5 digits in cost.
- There's innumerable things that can cause an engine to die whenever and it's usually not O2 sensors. Cam&crank sensors, TPS, MAP, MAF ECM, mechanical issues, Every connection you can think of, etc. Hell a bad battery or an iffy battery connection will do it on modern vehicles.
-Here's a hint.... Check the fuel pressure, No one thinks of it. If it has a replaceable fuel filter change it but most Chryslers and post 06 vehicles have in tank filters.
- Most of the really good techs aren't at the dealers, They're at indy shops or start their own. Reason being is the master techs usually get handed all the warranty work and the factories have cut the times way down, Sometimes in half. I don't want to get stuck diagnosing and fixing the emission systems on these new diesel trucks...... At least not for warranty time.
- If you want to play with your own cars check the brand and model specific forums, youtube etc
- A decent scanner can be had for around $500 but if you don't know how to interpret the numbers and how they work together stick to a code reader.



Left the dealer in 94 and haven't looked back yet.
 

Nalt

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Jul 23, 2020
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As one who has done this crap professionally since 82 I have some advise....

- If you put stop leak in your AC then take it to a garage please inform them of such as the crud in there can find its way into my $4500 AC machine, The new 1234yf machines are 5 digits in cost.
- There's innumerable things that can cause an engine to die whenever and it's usually not O2 sensors. Cam&crank sensors, TPS, MAP, MAF ECM, mechanical issues, Every connection you can think of, etc. Hell a bad battery or an iffy battery connection will do it on modern vehicles.
-Here's a hint.... Check the fuel pressure, No one thinks of it. If it has a replaceable fuel filter change it but most Chryslers and post 06 vehicles have in tank filters.
- Most of the really good techs aren't at the dealers, They're at indy shops or start their own. Reason being is the master techs usually get handed all the warranty work and the factories have cut the times way down, Sometimes in half. I don't want to get stuck diagnosing and fixing the emission systems on these new diesel trucks...... At least not for warranty time.
- If you want to play with your own cars check the brand and model specific forums, youtube etc
- A decent scanner can be had for around $500 but if you don't know how to interpret the numbers and how they work together stick to a code reader.



Left the dealer in 94 and haven't looked back yet.
A co-worker that is also a "car guy" put me on a video blog a year or so back where the mechanic doing the blog actually showed that his vehicle had a vacuum leak. He positioned his camera where it could record him pouring a bottle of water on the running engine around the intake manifold and it could also see the white, water vapor that came out of his exhaust pipe a couple of seconds later. That was his issue. I've not tried that on my Durango though. I just thought it was cool how he demonstrated it.
 

URGatorBait

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Okay does it blow better or cool better on the highway? A tripped hps or lps affects the operation of the compressor
It takes a long time to do so, but technically yes at blows "cooler" at speed
 

grengadgy

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It takes a long time to do so, but technically yes at blows "cooler" at speed
It might going out on high head pressure and highway speeds would be cooling the hot gases down and resetting the HPS Cutout. Condenser in front of your radiator is cooled by your fan but highway speeds would force more air through it.
 

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