Just bought a classic truck

[Swamp Donkey]

Theres a guy in Ocala that charges 150 a side and uses a glass finish after welding instead of bondo...the whole lot includes cab doors and two wheel well points...it’s 225 for the kit and 300 for installation

There is nothing wrong with "Bondo". It is a 3m product and they make some of the best body and paint products on the planet.

It is prefectly normal for body wotk to need filler. Its is impossible to make flat welds, or body repairs (hammer and dolly work) without having low areas.

It is meants to be a very thin layer, sanded down. The different products will havetheir won requirements. Some say filler directly over metal only. Some say it is ok over primer. Most are picky about the type of primer but epoxy primer is usually good.

The problem are all the hallfassu fans who view body work as something akin to drywall or plaster work. People who use Bondo or other fillers over holes, which is always an absolute no no. And people who use bondo to fill massive dents or caves instead of doing real bodywork.

 

[JDW]

There is nothing wrong with "Bondo". It is a 3m product and they make some of the best body and paint products on the planet.

It is prefectly normal for body wotk to need filler. Its is impossible to make flat welds, or body repairs (hammer and dolly work) without having low areas.

It is meants to be a very thin layer, sanded down. The different products will havetheir won requirements. Some say filler directly over metal only. Some say it is ok over primer. Most are picky about the type of primer but epoxy primer is usually good.

The problem are all the hallfassu fans who view body work as something akin to drywall or plaster work. People who use Bondo or other fillers over holes, which is always an absolute no no. And people who use bondo to fill massive dents or caves instead of doing real bodywork.

Bondo is great...but it will soak up water and I want to maintain the rustic look without painting the truck...if he uses the glass to smooth out the areas I don’t have to rush to paint or put a clear coat on

 

[JDW]

It’s a lil rough but I added the last picture to show the look I’m going for as opposed to people that like to lower the trucks and put them on large rims...not my style...I want an aggressive stance and a classic look

 

[CGgater]

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It’s a lil rough but I added the last picture to show the look I’m going for as opposed to people that like to lower the trucks and put them on large rims...not my style...I want an aggressive stance and a classic look

I've never understood lowering a truck. Trucks are meant to carry, tow and venture off the pavement. Why remove a critical capability?

YOU, sir, are wise.

 

[JDW]

I've never understood lowering a truck. Trucks are meant to carry, tow and venture off the pavement. Why remove a critical capability?

YOU, sir, are wise.

I mean what else could trucks be for?

 

[Concrete Helmet]

Yeah, 78 isnt classic in anything, especially a Cheby truck

You obviously don't know how hard it is to find ANY Chevy or GM vehicle that still runs after 50K miles or 5 years....this thing is indeed "rare"

 

[Swamp Donkey]

Bondo is great...but it will soak up water

So will fiberglass. fiberglass is terrible about absorbing water. plus I'm not even sure that Bondo doesn't have some fiberglass in it. I know you probably mean that long hair fibeglass. frankly it's hard to get that stuff to lay down. you end up needing a glaze over it. If the repair is done well then you usially dont need the long strand.

The key is that bomdo or fiberglass is applied properly. you can't put any filler /putty/ fiberglass/Bondo/ glaze whatever over a hole. The backside hole WILL absorb water or water vapor and crack and fall out soon. You've got the weld /adhesive in the new metal and use the bondo in THIN amounts to make the repair perfect.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

I've never understood lowering a truck. Trucks are meant to carry, tow and venture off the pavement. Why remove a critical capability?

YOU, sir, are wise.

TO SHOW YOUR INDIVIDUALITY BY LOWERING YOUR RIDE







JUST LIKE EVERYBODY ELSE DOES.

 

[JDW]

TO SHOW YOUR ORIGINALITY BY LOWERING YOUR TRUCK OR CAR JUST LIKE EVERYBODY ELSE DOES.

And how...I hate lowered vehicles

 

[Spectator]

That's a lot of work project. Gallons per mile truck, good for towing boats.

 

[Concrete Helmet]

And how...I hate lowered vehicles

Yup, never been a fan of lowered trucks anyway. What does she look like under the hood? 350V8?

 

[JDW]

Yup, never been a fan of lowered trucks anyway. What does she look like under the hood? 350V8?

It’s the stock 305...but I have a 350 my friend has out of his chevelle they swapped with a 383...Got it for 200.00 and it’ll be around 1800 to do the rebuild and get a new oil pan cam and timing chain installed

 

[Concrete Helmet]

It’s the stock 305...but I have a 350 my friend has out of his chevelle they swapped with a 383...Got it for 200.00 and it’ll be around 1800 to do the rebuild and get a new oil pan cam and timing chain installed

Good deal...there are more parts and better pricing on those engines(small block chevy)than anything else out there. Take your time and have fun with it.

 

[JDW]

Good deal...there are more parts and better pricing on those engines(small block chevy)than anything else out there. Take your time and have fun with it.

Ive been looking at intakes, aluminum headers, carburetors and some upgrades to the spark plug wires and distribution

 

[soflagator]

It’s a lil rough but I added the last picture to show the look I’m going for as opposed to people that like to lower the trucks and put them on large rims...not my style...I want an aggressive stance and a classic look

I like it JDW. You’re probably gonna want to replace that front seat though.

Honestly, sounds like a fun project for you that you’re passionate about. Have fun and post pics when you can.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

It’s the stock 305...but I have a 350 my friend has out of his chevelle they swapped with a 383...Got it for 200.00 and it’ll be around 1800 to do the rebuild and get a new oil pan cam and timing chain installed

will the 305 run? I know every hot rod head on the planet creams over at 350 and hates the 305.....

but you have several things to consider.

for those 305 generally lived easier lives and are frankly fairly long lived. a 350 that came out of some souped-up Chevelle that has been thrashed within an inch of its life.

often the 305s came with really low ratio axles. I'm not sure when that started but it definitely was the case by the mid-80s. if you start throwing large tires on it that may not work without changing a ring and pinion. Im not really sure if the heavy 150 came with a higher ratio rear end or not. but I would want to know that the axles will work with taller tires if that was my plan.

I think you can look pretty cool with stockish tires. riding around on 31 or 33s also not particularly original, any more than a lowered ghetto ride, and kind of stupid if you spend most of your drive time on pavement.

ever noticed what the military does to their vehicles were off road? it's not 33s. reliability is very important the farther from stock you go the less reliable, period.

adding a bunch of horsepower just ends up with broken stuff if you don't upgrade the rest also.

 

[JDW]

will the 305 run? I know every hot rod head on the planet creams over at 350 and hates the 305.....

but you have several things to consider.

for those 305 generally lived easier lives and are frankly fairly long lived. a 350 that came out of some souped-up Chevelle that has been thrashed within an inch of its life.

often the 305s came with really low ratio axles. I'm not sure when that started but it definitely was the case by the mid-80s. if you start throwing large tires on it that may not work without changing a ring and pinion. Im not really sure if the heavy 150 came with a higher ratio rear end or not. but I would want to know that the axles will work with taller tires if that was my plan.

I think you can look pretty cool with stockish tires. riding around on 31 or 33s also not particularly original, any more than a lowered ghetto ride, and kind of stupid if you spend most of your drive time on pavement.

ever noticed what the military does to their vehicles were off road? it's not 33s. reliability is very important the farther from stock you go the less reliable, period.

adding a bunch of horsepower just ends up with broken stuff if you don't upgrade the rest also.

Fair points for sure...the 350 came out of his grandfathers Chevelle that was a Sunday driver car with only 60,000 on it and the 305 has 350,000 on it and feels like it’s in need of some serious TLC...the rear axle and tranny are getting replaced and the running gear and brakes are getting upgraded along with oversized rotors...my experience in the past like you said is spend the money upfront and over the course of the life of the truck it won’t break...I just put a 3 inch lift on my Dakota and upgraded a few things and it handles and drives better than before

 

[JDW]

I like it JDW. You’re probably gonna want to replace that front seat though.

Honestly, sounds like a fun project for you that you’re passionate about. Have fun and post pics when you can.

Thanks...I have the plan to get the frame powder coated before reinstalling it and getting the upholstery done...the whole cab is getting an overhaul...the ceiling is getting upholstered with the same material as the bench seat too

 

[soflagator]

Thanks...I have the plan to get the frame powder coated before reinstalling it and getting the upholstery done...the whole cab is getting an overhaul...the ceiling is getting upholstered with the same material as the bench seat too

So now it’s really just a question of cheetah or zebra print. I’ll be honest, it’s a tough call.

 

[JDW]

So now it’s really just a question of cheetah or zebra print. I’ll be honest, it’s a tough call.

If it’s not gator skin or camo I really don’t have any business refinishing this thing