Cooter, Help! Zambo gets Betty too hot

bradgator2

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On to the next one. A pergola by the pool. This will be a long project.... but the hardest part is starting it. We had a 14x10 pad poured when we did the pool deck. So it will be custom built to fit that.

Step 1: footers. Specs for these straps (for 6inx6in posts) say set in a 14inx14inx14in hole. No problemo
E131-C78-E-56-E3-455-F-9932-2-DD7-B91594-A6.jpg


The hole is cut at a small angle so the footer be slightly under the existing deck.

975774-C0-F9-B4-4-B9-E-B574-2159-C3555215.jpg


Which requires 3 50lb bags of concrete mix:
BEF03-C97-A26-C-4-F52-B3-B8-A01-BEA320680.jpg

Rounded the corners:
C88-F264-A-51-CC-48-F4-A71-B-B656-BE8-D865-C.jpg

E7-CA26-D4-3-E7-F-4-C83-91-D9-D1832-D3671-E5.jpg



That sucked. That is some back breaking shiit. Finished the other 3 today:
FDD8-CE34-C788-41-C0-9-C84-F5-C9-C87-BD9-D5.jpg
 
Last edited:

URGatorBait

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On to the next one. A pergola by the pool. This will be a long project.... but the hardest part is starting it. We had a 14x10 pad poured when we did the pool deck. So it will be custom built to fit that.

Step 1: footers. Specs for these straps (for 6inx6in posts) say set in a 14inx14inx14in hole. No problemo
E131-C78-E-56-E3-455-F-9932-2-DD7-B91594-A6.jpg


The hole is cut at a small angle so the footer be slightly under the existing deck.

975774-C0-F9-B4-4-B9-E-B574-2159-C3555215.jpg


Which requires 3 50lb bags of concrete mix:
BEF03-C97-A26-C-4-F52-B3-B8-A01-BEA320680.jpg

Rounded the corners:
C88-F264-A-51-CC-48-F4-A71-B-B656-BE8-D865-C.jpg

E7-CA26-D4-3-E7-F-4-C83-91-D9-D1832-D3671-E5.jpg



That sucked. That is some back breaking shiit. Finished the other 3 today:
FDD8-CE34-C788-41-C0-9-C84-F5-C9-C87-BD9-D5.jpg
Those better be square or coot is gonna have words with you :lol:
 

crosscreekcooter

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That will be a nice project. Do yourself a favor and don't use pressure treated pine above the 4 posts. Just my 2 cents.
 

bradgator2

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That will be a nice project. Do yourself a favor and don't use pressure treated pine above the 4 posts. Just my 2 cents.

I have not purchased any of that yet. Only the 6x6 posts. What’s your recommendation for the wood above the posts? I was planning on using 2 2x6x16ft sandwiched together to make each header. Cut/chisel the top of the posts so they rest on the posts and I can bolt them to the uncut remaining piece of the post.
 

crosscreekcooter

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Be prepared for the posts to split, it's just the nature of wood timbers as they season. Cedar would be preferable, pine has a propensity to wind or warp when exposed to the sun. A coating on the material will add life to it but adds maintenance down the road (cleaning or re-painting). Stains either solid hide or transparent should be applied before constructing (much easier) and then touched up after complete.
2x6 beams are too small both for the span and scale. I'm assuming you plan a 12" overhang. I would suggest double 2x10s, one on either side of the post (4 total), 2x6 rafters 16" oc and 1x2 or 1x3 transverse perlins @24" oc. I wouldn't bother mortising a haunch in the post but that's just me. Are you planning lighting?

edit* you might check availability of fingerjoint primed material which is pretty stable longitudinally and the primed coating makes it durable.
 

bradgator2

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Got it. I’ll do those recommendations. Not a big change from the plan in my head.

The reason for mortising the top of the post was simply ease of installing the header as I will be doing this solo. 2 2x10x16ft will be freaking heavy. But let me chew on installing one each side of the post. I think that’ll look really nice.

Was definitely going to stain each piece on the ground purely for ease of doing it.

No plan on lighting or electrical.
 

bradgator2

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I will say this, although mortising the post is not hard..... there is really only one good shot at making it level. Was going to use a water tube level. Installing one on each side of the post would be a million times easier from a leveling perspective. Plus I do think it would look better. I have some ideas on how I can do it solo. Thanks for your insights Coot. They are always entertaining and welcome.
 

crosscreekcooter

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I will say this, although mortising the post is not hard..... there is really only one good shot at making it level. Was going to use a water tube level. Installing one on each side of the post would be a million times easier from a leveling perspective. Plus I do think it would look better. I have some ideas on how I can do it solo. Thanks for your insights Coot. They are always entertaining and welcome.
If you dont have a laser level, your pool beam is a great benchmark and its level all around the perimeter. Turn one of the longer framing boards up on edge on the pool beam and let the other end rest against the post, lay a 4 foot level on the board and raise the low end until the bubble reads level and then mark the post at the top of the board. Measure up to the bottom of the desired beam elevation and set a 12d nail. This nail will allow you to rest one end of the beam while you secure the other end.
 

TLB

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Not to derail, but I could use some advice on the next job staring me down. Home was purchased with a drywall on the garage walls, that's it. With a decade here, and the kids playing hockey, soccer, basketball, baseball, and just about everything else in there...they've grown, and managed to break a few holes in the dry wall. Before they break thru the interior wall to the dining room, I'd like to replace the garage drywall with something that can take a beating. Appearance is not that important, functionality (durability) is, as well as cost. With that, I'm strongly considering putting up plywood (I'm guessing 1/2" thick outta do it, but I'm way out of my league with this one. I don't know if I need to check any local building codes, I assume so and that will be a learning curve as well. But just to do the job, I'm the only one physically strong enough to hoist a 4'x8' plywood up, but I can't hold it and hammer it in place. I'm also assuming I should replace in the same pattern as the drywall = 8' wide, 4' tall, full sheet at a top corner and across the wall. Then next row down, and then the bottom row gets cut to needed length based on how far we are above the floor.

Any recommendations on:
Buildinging code concerns
What plywood to use
How to go about the actual installation - again, single adult. Or do I just hire this out (if anyone's doing such work these days).
 

crosscreekcooter

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Most cost effective is 7/16" OSB (11.35/ea @ HD here in Jax). Stand it upright (4' wide ) and apply directly over the drywall. You are going to have a problem with window and door casings so you may want to remove all casings and apply a 7/16" jamb extension and re-apply the casing. The baseboard will come off as well but will not require an extension and can be re-applied over the OSB panels. There is a slick side to the OSB that you may find easier to paint however the strand fibers on either side will telegraph visually through the paint and the surface is not as dust friendly over time as a true slick finish like interior grade wood paneling.
 

bradgator2

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Phase 2 done.
A00-D5755-88-B4-4760-8-AB1-ECDB534341-CF.jpg

80-CCA813-3-EAA-4-B85-B148-F8-EA20-F973-E3.jpg


The specs for the straps warned that 6x6 posts usually run big and to dry fit them before you sink the strap into concrete. This post was roughly an 1/8th inch to large. So I had to remove a little wood where the strap goes. You can just make it out.
5087-F4-BD-E22-E-4-CE8-B9-C2-314-BD1-FE04-A1.jpg


I’ll cut the bolts down and trim out the bottom with a “baseboard” to hide the strap.
 

bradgator2

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Decided to go with my original plan of mortising the top of the post. That’s harder to do than it looks on a post that size. I have 2 done.

FDD1-FBA7-FD36-4-CF0-AF38-49-B6-DB9-FE904.jpg


So I will connect the 2 2x10 headers like this:
Beam_And_Post_Connection.jpg
 

Detroitgator

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Decided to go with my original plan of mortising the top of the post. That’s harder to do than it looks on a post that size. I have 2 done.

FDD1-FBA7-FD36-4-CF0-AF38-49-B6-DB9-FE904.jpg


So I will connect the 2 2x10 headers like this:
Beam_And_Post_Connection.jpg
Yeah, any man with at least one testicle and an ounce of testosterone could picture in their head what you meant without your diagram... NERD!!!! ;)
 

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