- Jun 9, 2014
- 78,743
- 111,636
Founding Member
It really depends.Doesn't a bad O2 sensor just puts your PCM into limp mode? It will play hell on your gas mileage but won't strand you.
It really depends.Doesn't a bad O2 sensor just puts your PCM into limp mode? It will play hell on your gas mileage but won't strand you.
I was talking to some young kid and a Geo Metro drove by (convertible). I know those used to be common in Florida as pods behind a big RV, and maybe they still are, but you don't see them up north anymore.I don’t mess with modern cars. Not worth it..
I was going to mention that word, but didn't bother to post. Living in Dearborn had some "advantages" as a teen in a land where people still lived and loved cars... believe it or not, allegedly, maybe, perhaps... there was a dumpster, supposedly on Ford property, allegedly in the engineering complex supposedly across the street from a high school that may have been named Edsel B. Ford (allegedly "home of the Thunderbirds") where one could reportedly find odd, discarded, test carburetors... apparently, and supposedly, they would find their way to a home, and they would, by all alleged accounts, provide great fun for all who supposedly played with them... allegedly... in lore... perhaps.I was talking to some young kid and a Geo Metro drove by (convertible). I know those used to be common in Florida as pods behind a big RV, and maybe they still are, but you don't see them up north anymore.
I mentioned that those things got 50-60mph. Kid said "an early hybrid". And I laughed. No, dude, a carburated car. We had all kinds of cars in the 80s that got great mileage. My first Escort--GT even!-- got 42-45 on the highway. He was dumbfounded.
ROFL...I did that a couple of years ago. They charged me ~$75 to do a diagnostic on the vehicle and gave me a printout of 10 items that needed to be done to it. One of which was that it needed the rear-end lubricant replaced. I told the guy that I had never heard of the need to replace the rear end lub. He was adamant that it needed to be replaced because condensation inside the housing could/would cause rust to build up eventually causing a failure. I talked to my dad who at the time was about 84 y/o and had worked on many different vehicles in his lifetime. He had never heard of the need for that...If the old tub is worth it, take it to a Dodge dealership. Most expensive, but they usually have the right answers.
Or if it sat in flood water for three weeks...You especially need to change the differential fluid if that thing has a limited slip, or, of course if it's ever been in water, like anyone has ever driven it through a creek or whatever.
most of the OBD will store codes for a pretty long time unless you wiped them.It has been several months since I had the codes read. Don't remember what they were. I'll try and get them sometime this weekend.
ROFL...I did that a couple of years ago. They charged me ~$75 to do a diagnostic on the vehicle and gave me a printout of 10 items that needed to be done to it. One of which was that it needed the rear-end lubricant replaced. I told the guy that I had never heard of the need to replace the rear end lub. He was adamant that it needed to be replaced because condensation inside the housing could/would cause rust to build up eventually causing a failure. I talked to my dad who at the time was about 84 y/o and had worked on many different vehicles in his lifetime. He had never heard of the need for that...
20 years ago we bought a 3 year old Accord. We later gave it to my niece. She later gave it to her brother. Last I heard, it’s still chugging along.I run my vehicles sometimes well over 200k. My son's Honda, which used to be my daughter's honda, which used to be my cousin's honda which used to be my aunt's honda, has had every fluid changed multiple times. I will sell it soon probably, but it has a lot of miles left in it. it has never had a major problem.
My mom bought a 2006 Honda Civic when it was brand new.20 years ago we bought a 3 year old Accord. We later gave it to my niece. She later gave it to her brother. Last I heard, it’s still chugging along.
If it's a freon leak there's a leak stopper that works good. I put a can in my wife's 4-runner and it has worked for 3 years where before a charge worked about 3 or 4 months.Gotta get the AC worked on but other than that still drives great.
Not sure yet, just started really looking into it.If it's a freon leak there's a leak stopper that works good. I put a can in my wife's 4-runner and it has worked for 3 years where before a charge worked about 3 or 4 months.
gage reading? Multiple stop leaks might screw your ac system.Not sure yet, just started really looking into it.
We've tried about every leak stopper on the market.
I think the problem is probably the compressor
We've had the levels checked and out back to correct.gage reading? Multiple stop leaks might screw your ac system.
both fans? the one inside and the radiator fan?We've had the levels checked and out back to correct.
It reads in the proper range, just doesn't blow, and only does marginally better at highway speeds.
I have a few things to check on it to make sure the air flow is getting through, but both fans operate correctly, and the compressor itself comes on and off as it should best I can tell.
ROFL...I did that a couple of years ago. They charged me ~$75 to do a diagnostic on the vehicle and gave me a printout of 10 items that needed to be done to it. One of which was that it needed the rear-end lubricant replaced. I told the guy that I had never heard of the need to replace the rear end lub. He was adamant that it needed to be replaced because condensation inside the housing could/would cause rust to build up eventually causing a failure. I talked to my dad who at the time was about 84 y/o and had worked on many different vehicles in his lifetime. He had never heard of the need for that...
just doesn't blow
.